Sonamarg, Kashmir

There is a point on the drive from Srinagar where the valley narrows, the Sindh River gets louder, and the mountains close in on both sides. The road follows the river through gorges and past waterfalls that seem to appear out of nowhere. And then, after about two and a half hours of winding through some of the most dramatic scenery in India, the valley opens up and you arrive in Sonmarg, the Meadow of Gold.

We at Trivilio have a soft spot for Sonmarg. It is not as famous as Gulmarg. It does not have the infrastructure of Pahalgam. But it has something that neither of those places can match: the feeling that you are standing at the edge of something vast and wild. Sonmarg is the last major settlement before the Zoji La pass, the ancient road to Ladakh. Beyond here, the landscape changes completely. The green valleys give way to bare rock and high desert. Sonmarg is where the two worlds meet.

At 2,800 metres in the Ganderbal district, Sonmarg gets its name from the golden wildflowers that carpet the meadows in summer. Our guide Rafiq, who was born in one of the villages near here, says the meadows look like someone spilled liquid gold across the ground. When the afternoon light hits them at the right angle, he is not exaggerating. This is the kind of place where you take a photograph, look at it on your phone, and realise it does not come close to what your eyes just saw.

The Thajiwas Glacier is just a short pony ride from the main meadow. It is one of the most accessible glaciers in India, a wall of blue-white ice surrounded by wildflowers and mountain streams. Most people visit Sonmarg as a day trip from Srinagar, and that works. But if you can stay overnight, the experience changes completely. The silence after the last tourist bus leaves is something else entirely.

Thajiwas Glacier

Thajiwas is the star attraction, and rightly so. From the main meadow, you take a pony ride of about 30 to 40 minutes through a valley that narrows as you climb. The path follows a stream that gets colder and clearer the higher you go. And then the glacier appears, a massive wall of ice that has been here for thousands of years, sitting in a natural amphitheatre of rock. Even in July, there is snow on the ground near the glacier, and the air temperature drops noticeably. Children love playing in the snow in the middle of summer, and adults are quietly stunned by the scale of it.

Our team tip: The pony ride is the standard way to reach Thajiwas, but Rafiq from our team offers a walking option for guests who are reasonably fit. The walk takes about an hour each way, follows the stream the entire time, and you see far more of the valley than you do from the back of a pony. He stops at a particular spot halfway up where a side stream creates a small waterfall, a perfect place to rest and take in the view.

Zero Point

Zero Point is the last accessible point before the Zoji La pass. At roughly 3,000 metres, it sits on a high plateau where snow persists well into summer. The drive from Sonmarg takes about an hour in a shared jeep or private vehicle, climbing through switchbacks with increasingly dramatic views. At the top, you are surrounded by a landscape that looks more like Ladakh than Kashmir: bare rock, distant glaciers, and a sky that seems closer than anywhere else. On a clear day, the panorama is extraordinary.

Rafiq always tells our guests that Zero Point is not about arriving. It is about the drive there. Every turn reveals a new view, and the landscape changes so rapidly that you feel like you are travelling through different countries in the space of an hour. He recommends going in the morning when the light is best and the jeep queues are shortest.

Trout Fishing on the Sindh

The Sindh River that flows through Sonmarg is one of the best trout fishing spots in Asia. The water is crystal clear, fast-moving, and full of brown trout. Fishing permits are available locally, and our team can arrange an experienced local fishing guide who knows exactly where the trout gather. Even if you have never fished before, casting a line into the Sindh while standing in one of the most beautiful valleys in the Himalayas is an experience that goes beyond the catch.

Trekking to the Alpine Lakes

Sonmarg is the base camp for some of the most spectacular treks in Kashmir. The Vishansar and Krishansar lakes, twin alpine lakes sitting at over 3,600 metres, are a two-day trek from Sonmarg through some of the most pristine mountain scenery you will ever see. The Gadsar Lake trek is longer but equally stunning. These are not casual walks, they require decent fitness and proper gear, but our team organises everything, from porters to camping equipment to a local cook who makes hot meals at altitude. Bilal from our team has done these treks dozens of times and knows every campsite and water source.

The Drive Itself

We almost hesitate to list this, because it is not a destination. But the drive from Srinagar to Sonmarg, along the Sindh Valley, is one of the most beautiful drives in India. The road follows the river the entire way, passing through dense forests, past waterfalls, and through small villages where life has not changed much in decades. Jamsheed, our driver, knows every stopping point. There is a particular bridge about an hour in where the gorge is so narrow that the sound of the river echoes off both walls. It is a drive worth savouring, not rushing through.

Sonmarg has fewer hotels than Gulmarg or Pahalgam, but what is here is good. The Glacier Heights Resort offers comfortable rooms with mountain views. Hotel Snow Land is a solid mid-range option close to the meadow. There are also government-run tourist huts that are basic but clean and well-located. For something more special, our team can arrange stays in luxury tented camps that pop up in the meadow during peak season, proper beds, hot water, and views of the glacier from your tent.

Our team tip: Most visitors come to Sonmarg as a day trip. But staying overnight changes everything. After 5 PM, when the last jeeps leave for Srinagar, the meadow becomes incredibly peaceful. The stars at night are extraordinary because there is almost no light pollution. Rafiq from our team says the overnight guests always leave with a completely different impression of Sonmarg than the day-trippers. If your schedule allows it, one night here is worth it.