Gulmarg, Kashmir

The first time you see Gulmarg, it stops you. Not in the way a nice view might. It stops you the way a long exhale does, one you didn't know you were holding in. The road from Srinagar climbs through walnut orchards and apple trees, passes through the old town of Tangmarg, and then, quite suddenly, opens up into a meadow so wide and green that your brain takes a second to catch up.

We at Trivilio have been bringing guests to Gulmarg for years, and this moment never gets old. Our driver Jamsheed, who has made this drive well over a thousand times, still slows down at the last curve so everyone can take it in. He says the meadow looks different every single day. In winter, it vanishes under metres of powder snow. In spring, it turns into a carpet of wild crocuses and buttercups. In summer, it is the kind of green that photographers spend careers chasing. In autumn, the surrounding forests blush gold and rust before the first snowfall.

Gulmarg sits at 2,650 metres in the Pir Panjal range. The Mughals came here in the 16th century because they thought it was the most beautiful place on earth. The British built a golf course here in 1891, one of the highest in the world, and it is still in use today. Now it is home to Asia's highest gondola, world-class skiing, and some of the most honest mountain air you will ever breathe.

But what makes Gulmarg special in the Trivilio way is not the headline attractions. It is the small things our team knows, the quiet corners most visitors miss, and the timing that turns a good trip into a great one. That is what we want to share with you here.

The Gondola Ride

The Gulmarg Gondola is, without exaggeration, one of the most dramatic cable car rides in the world. Phase 1 takes you from the base at 2,650 metres up to Kongdoori at 3,080 metres. The views are beautiful, but Phase 2 is where it becomes truly spectacular. You climb from Kongdoori to Mount Apharwat at 3,950 metres, and on a clear day, you can see Nanga Parbat, the ninth-highest mountain on earth, across the valley. Our team always recommends both phases. The whole ride takes about 20 minutes, and you will not want it to end.

Our team tip: Skip the main Gondola queue. Buy your tickets online the night before. Jamsheed, our senior driver, always drops guests at Phase 1 by 8:30 AM, before the crowds arrive. On weekdays, you will practically have the gondola to yourself.

Skiing and Snow

Gulmarg is Asia's premier ski destination, and that is not marketing talk. The slopes here are genuinely world-class. From December through March, the mountain receives consistent, deep powder snow that ski enthusiasts travel across continents for. There are runs for absolute beginners, gentle nursery slopes near Phase 1, and there are expert backcountry lines off the Apharwat ridge that would challenge anyone. Equipment rental and certified instructors are available right at the base.

Waseem from our team learned to ski here as a child. He still takes guests up on their first day and shows them the ropes. He says the snow in Gulmarg is different from European resorts, drier, lighter, and incredibly forgiving for beginners. If you have never skied before, this is one of the best places in the world to learn.

The Meadow Walk

Not everything in Gulmarg needs a ticket or an adrenaline rush. Some of our favourite moments happen on foot. The main meadow stretches for nearly three kilometres, and walking through it in summer, when the wildflowers are blooming, is an experience you carry with you long after you leave. The old St. Mary's Church, built in 1902, sits quietly in the middle of the meadow. It is one of the most photographed buildings in Kashmir, and it deserves every click.

If you walk a little further, past the golf course, you reach the edges of the Gulmarg Biosphere Reserve. Bilal from our team has walked every trail here and knows where to spot Himalayan monal pheasants, the brilliantly coloured birds that are hard to find unless someone shows you where to look.

Horse Riding Across the Bowl

Gulmarg's meadow is shaped like a giant bowl, with mountains rising on all sides. One of the best ways to take it all in is on horseback. The local horse owners know paths that cut through pine forests and open onto ridgelines with views of the entire valley. It is gentle riding, suitable for families and first-timers, and our team can arrange it as part of any Gulmarg day plan.

The Golf Course

Built in 1891 at 2,650 metres, the Gulmarg Golf Course is one of the highest green golf courses in the world. It is an 18-hole course surrounded by mountains, and playing a round here, even if you are not a serious golfer, is a memorable experience. The course opens in late April and stays playable through October. Our team can arrange tee times and equipment if you want to add this to your visit.

Gulmarg has accommodation for every kind of traveller. At the top end, The Khyber Himalayan Resort is genuinely world-class, a heated pool, mountain views from every room, and service that competes with the best in the country. Hotel Heevan and Hotel Highlands Park offer solid four-star comfort with great locations near the gondola base. For budget travellers, there are well-maintained guesthouses and homestays that Tariq from our team personally vets each season.

Our team tip: We always recommend staying at least two nights. One night is not enough, you spend the whole day at the gondola and leave before you have even walked through the meadow at sunset. Two nights lets you ski or explore on day one, and take a relaxed horse ride or golf round on day two. That second evening, when you sit outside with a cup of kahwa and watch the last light on the mountains, is when Gulmarg really gets under your skin.